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                                                                           TPI Components                                     

Another consideration to think about is if you decided to use the one piece serpentine belt. The older style water pump will not work as the direction of rotation is wrong. You'll have to use a water pump that is specifically used with the one piece belt. It is possible to modify your older pump by using the impeller from the later model pump, but you will need special tools to accomplish this, and the average person (like me) does not have. It is is just not worth the hassle.  Many auto parts stores carry  the proper water pump but many are made overseas (China) which in my opinion is an inferior quality pump, sure they may carry a "lifetime" warranty, but how many times do you want to replace it?, and take a chance of the hub possibly coming off and destroying your pride and joy? Just remember these overseas items are mainly made by child and prison labor in working conditions that are substandard and dangerous, so do you think you are getting a top quality product? Your money is well spent by paying $75-100 for a top quality pump made by a reputable company such as GM.

One thing I had to do on my Camaro, since the serpentine pump does not have a provision on top of the top for the heater hose, is to come out of the right side cylinder head. Remove the plug and install a 3/4" pipe nipple 3" long, a 3/4" pipe 90 degree fitting and use the nipple from a water pump to attach your hose. Your car will not overheat, using this location for the outlet.

 

  

This pic shows the heater outlet line I used since I'm using single serpentine belt with reverse water pump.

  

The cooling fan will be have to changed to a electric fan set up. Unless you use a speed density with the air cleaner mounted on the throttle body. The fan seen here in the second picture is common to many GM front wheel drive vehicles, and you can use the one from your tpi donor car. You'll have to fabricate the mounting brackets which mount the fan to the upper and lower radiator supports. See drawing below for the dimensions I used:

To seal around the perimeter of the fan housing, use a trunk or front cowl rubber seal. Just cut it to fit once you have fit it around the fan housing. Don't skip this part as it is vital to the cooling fans efficiency. Make sure  that when you mount the fan in place that the seal offers some resistance as you tighten your mounting bolts.

NOTE: If you are installing a TPI in a full size truck, jeep or similar vehicle do not eliminate your stock mechanical fan. A single electric fan will not pull enough air through the radiator at low engine speeds and will possibly lead to overheating problems. At least you will need 2 high volume electric fans to properly cool the vehicle. If you are using a MAF TPI this can lead to installation hassles for the MAF sensor and fabricating the air duct, if you are using a speed density system and don't plan to use a air duct, the mechanical fan will clear the throttle body mounted air cleaner. Never run your tpi without an air cleaner assembly.

Running two fans, means you will need to separate relays to power the fans. Some later TPI factory harnesses will have a two fan set up, as long as the fan relay pigtail is not missing. If you already have a single fan set up and want to add a second fan use this schematic as a simple solution for installing one. The A/C pressure switch can be deleted and the green/white wire tapped into the existing green/white of the primary fan relay to be activated by the ecm, or you can also tap off this wire to add a back up cooling fan switch that turns on the fan at a predetermined temperature. The switch is normally open until it reaches the set point temperature and grounds this wire to complete the electrical path to activate the relay coil and energize the fan.

Changing to tpi will also mean the possibly having to redo your a/c system. Depending of what type of system your starting with will determine whether or not you'll have to make some minor or major changes. Here is some possibilities:

1) Older A-6 compressor and lines- you may have to give this system the heave-ho, as the brackets are incompatible with the tpi intake. Unless you are willing to spend some time to make a bracket that would somehow brace the backside of the compressor. If you have a old system that is in excellent working order and want to pursue this avenue, by all means do it . The only problem may be interference with the low pressure line going to the accumulator.

2) Newer R-4 compressor and lines- The compressor mounted on the l/s is easier to deal with. The late model R-4  brackets need little modification to work in the stock location. Again the lines may poise a problem. The large low pressure line still may interfere with the maf sensor air duct. Speed density may or may not be a problem, depending if you want a throttle body mounted air cleaner or plumb it to outside the engine compartment. If your compressor is mounted on the r/s, the lines won't poise any interference. The smaller high pressure line runs along the front of the top radiator support. The bracket may need modification.

If you plan to use the one piece serpentine belt, the compressor mounts on the right. You may have to change the lines out. A lot will depend on what side your compressor was originally mounted. And also on the location of what side the high pressure line fitting on the condenser originator. You'll have to see what you have on your car, and then search either the salvage yards for a compatible line, order a new one, and then have the direction of the fittings changed if necessary- remember, you are doing a custom installation . The picture below illustrates what I did on my Camaro using the serpentine belt.

 

This picture is of the 383 TPI with aftermarket Edelbrock Hi-Flo intake and runners. The throttle body was ported to 58MM.  April 2005.

 

 The line that goes to the right in the picture is the low pressure line. I had to have the fitting turned 90 degrees to install on the condenser high pressure fitting. The low pressure line as it goes off to the left in the picture had be shorten and a 45 degrees angle fitting installed. 

When redoing the a/c system, if yours is still charged with r-12, take it down to a qualified a/c shop and have them discharge the system. When you pull the lines off, be sure to cover them tightly and preferably plug them with vacuum line plugs. The same on the condenser, accumulator ( also know as receiver/dryer), and compressor. When you are ready to put your system together, replaced the orifice tube filter and replace the accumulator last. Have the lines ready to hook to the new accumulator as to minimize the time the open unit is exposed to the air. The reason is that the accumulator has a desiccant bag in it that removes very small amounts of moisture present in the refrigerant. Too much exposure to atmospheric air will cause it absorb a large amount of moisture and shortening its life. The lines should be installed with new "o" ring seals, lubricate them with a small amount of the refrigerant oil that compatible with your system. For example- R-12 oil with R-12 refrigerant, R-134A oil with R-134A. etc. Note- don't not skimp on o-rings, and tighten the lines snug but do not over tighten or you may strip the fitting threads. The lines need to be leak proof, and if they are not, you will be wasting your time and money!

ABBREVIATIONS USED IN THIS WEBSITE:  

A/C-  Air conditioning MAP- Manifold Absolute Pressure
A/F - Air/Fuel ratio
A.I.R-    Air Injection Reaction MAT-Manifold Air Temperature
ALCL- Assembly Line Connector Link    MEMCAL- Memory Calibrator
MFI- Multiport Fuel Injection
MOD- Modified or Module
ALDL- Assembly Line Diagnostic Link O2- Oxygen Sensor
A/T- Automatic Transmission OD- Overdrive (automatic transmission)
BAT- Battery
BLK- Black
BLM- Block Learn Memory ORG- Orange
BLU- Blue
PFI- Port Fuel Injection
BRN- Brown
Carb- Carburetor PNK- Pink
PPL- Purple
CALPAK- Calibration Package ( back up ecm instructions) PROM- Programmable Read Only Memory
CAN- Canister RD- Red
CARB- California Air Resources Board PWR- Power
R/A Resume/Accel (cruise control)
RAM- Random Access Memory
ROM- Read Only Memory
R/P- Ring and Pinion
RWD- Rear Wheel Drive
SES- Service Engine Soon (lamp)
SW- Switch
TERM- Terminal
TBI- Throttle Body Injection
TCC- Torque Converter Clutch
TPI- Tuned Port Injection
TPS- Throttle Position Sensor
TRNS- Transmission
Conn- Connector VSS- Vehicle Speed Sensor
CNTR- Control
VOM- Volt Ohmmeter (analog meter)
CNTRL- Control
CSS- Cold Start Switch WHT- White
CST- Coolant Temperature Sensor WOT- Wide Open Throttle
DC- Direct Current (battery power)
DIM- Dimension's)
DVM-Digital Volt-ohmmeter
ECM- Electronic Control Module YEL- Yellow
EGR- Exhaust Gas Recirulation
ESC- Electronic Spark Control
EST- Electronic Spark Timing
FWD- Front Wheel Drive
GM- General Motors
GRD-Ground
GRN- Green
GRY- Grey
HEI- High Energy Ignition
K- thousand i.e.: 10K= 10,000
IAC- Idle Air Control
IAT- Intake Air Temperature
INJ- Injector
JCT- Junction
MAF- Mass Air Flow

Transmissions:

Virtually any GM produced transmission will fit the small block Chevrolet V8 engine. The only exception is the BOP 200-4R exclusive to the Buick, Oldsmobile and Pontiac V8 engines. GM did make a 200-4R which had a dual bolt pattern that would fit either the Chevy or BOP engines. These were found mainly in the Caprice and Monte Carlo SS produced from 1986 through 1989.

Another transmission that was used is the 4L60E, which was used on the Camaro/Firebird from 1994 up. This essentially is the same as the 4L60 (also known as the 700-R4 in pre 1991 days). The "E" stands for electronic and that means this transmission is solely controlled by the PCM (power train module) . All the shift modes are varied depending on load, engine speed, temperature, etc. The shift points in these electronic trannys can be modified with the appropriate software for retuning, but it is best left to professionals. The transmission also has no provisions for a speedometer cable nor is there any adapter that can be readily installed. JTR (www.jagsthatrun) does make a adapter kit to allow you to add a provision to add a mechanical speedometer. Otherwise if you decide to implant a 1994 and later LT1 into your ride, you may have to use an electronic speedometer.

If you are installing a TPI engine, it is recommended that you use a overdrive transmission for the better gear ratio and improved fuel economy at highway speeds. This is especially true if you are using a high numerical gear such as a 3.23, 3.42, 3.73 or 4.11 gear, the 200R has an overdrive ratio of 67%, while the 700R is 70%.

Differential Gear Ratio          200-4R OD @ 67%             700R4 OD @ 70%
                3.23                     2.16                      2.26
                3.42                     2.29                      2.39
                3.73                     2.49                      2.61
                4.11                     2.75                      2.88

  Changing gears-Speedometer correction

If you do change gears, tire size or transmissions, use this link to the TCI website for useful information on correcting your speedometer calibration:

http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/speedo_gears.htm or http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com

 

This will save you countless time and frustration in getting your speedometer corrected.

 One thing I need to point out is that by changing the rpm ratio between the  engine, lock up converter and gear ratio will cause a driveline vibration that will be hard to solve unless you follow this one recommendation form me that I found out after spending money on balancing, changing bent? axles, pinion angles, transmission mounts etc.    

GM engineers solved this problem by designing the driveline with the appropriate gear ratio that would minimize vibration at commonly driven speeds found on the highway. This is why most TBI/TPI vehicles have very low numerical gear ratios such as 2.56, 2.73 and 3.08 gears. Going with the higher gear such as 3.23 and above required changes to reduced this vibration.

Read these two articles first may save you a lot of time and money:

http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0203sr_driving/

http://www.iedls.com/impala.html

 In any case, when you are doing a swap out, check the driveshaft, spend the time and money to have it balanced with new u-joints installed first. This will remove any doubt about the condition of the driveshaft. If it is dented or bent, replace it.

Check to make sure the driveshaft is not too long too short for your application, read the second article above.

 Have the pinion angles verified at the differential and the transmission output shaft. Replace the engine and transmission mounting bushings (when you are doing a swap, it is a good idea to already have this done before installing the new power train combo), and before verifying the driveline angles.

 Especially important is to make sure the bearings and the axle shafts are not worn or bent, make sure the flanges are not bent, which would cause an excessive run out and vibration.

 Once you are positive that the above items are taken care of, then consider having a larger diameter driveshaft built for your application. This will not eliminate the vibration, it will only move it up way higher in the rpm range you do not normally drive in.

One way I have discovered GM used to eliminate the vibration problems using shorter gears is to use an aluminum driveshaft with what appears to be a "harmonic balancer" installed on the slip yoke end for the transmission. 

For my Camaro I found a aluminum driveshaft that was used on the 1982-2003 Camaro's with the performance axles. I had to have the driveshaft lengthen to work with the balance yoke. The difference in length between the standard yoke and the balancer yoke is the difference you need to subtract from your existing driveshaft.  For example, my original driveshaft was 48.5" measured from the u-joint centerlines, however trying to install the new yoke meant the driveshaft would bottom out in the transmission without clearing the differential  u-joint saddle to install. Clearly the original driveshaft was too long. The clearance from the edge of the joint to clear the rear yoke should be no more than 3/8". In case of the stock driveshaft and slip yoke, it would clear by about 1/8", clearly within the tolerance allowed. If you measure the old yoke and new by lining them up evenly, you find the new yoke is about 1/2" longer. So this was the distance I subtracted from the original driveshaft length of 48.5" to come up with 47.75" and still allowed for suspension travel and clearance from the u joint to the rear yoke to still be with tolerance.

Keep this in mind whenever you change a driveshaft and you are needing to do what I have done. This is just an example to use and your application may vary so if there is any questions, contact a reputable driveshaft specialist.

                   

Some people may want to eliminate the lock up feature entirely by having it deprogram the chip, but this is not recommended because it will cause heat build up in the transmission and premature failure.

 

Consider installing a transmission cooler anyway for extra insurance.

Last, but not least, if you are experiencing a driveline vibration, do not keep driving the car just to live with the problem, it can lead to fatigue and failure of parts and may cause you to have an accident and put you and others on the road in a potentially fatal situation.

 

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