Cruise Control Information - cable operated throttle body only
If you plan to add the cruise control to your project, these are the essential items you will need to insure its success. The information in general in scope.
Safety features and over ride switches (Brake cut out, cruise cut out and/or
clutch anticipate switches) must be installed to insure the safe release of the
cruise control under all operating conditions. The end user (you) must install
all the required devices
shown in the diagrams and drawings below and to seek professional
from a ASE certified automotive specialist for the proper installation,
troubleshooting and repair of the installed cruise control system. This
is not a suggestion, this is mandatory!
The cruise control module shown above is a very common item that is available at the salvage yard. Found on a vast majority of GM FWD and RWD cars from 1996 and up. They are located on various locations depending on the model and also the length of cable will vary as well. The mounting bracket is also different and you will need to do research to know what you will need to properly mount the module.
The best sources are the ones where the cruise module is mounted on the passenger side and the wiring harness runs in the front of the radiator, which has the longest length of wiring where you can mount it on the passenger side if space permits, or cut it shorter if needed.
The connector has 10 wires and all are used. This
requires a 40K pulse VSS signal (auto trans) or 17K VSS signal (t56
transmission) programmed in the PCM.
The schematics show the connections for using either an automatic or manual transmission. Be aware that if you are using a 200 or 700 transmission, you will need to insure that you retain control for the torque converter lock up and that will mean that you will have to fabricate a relay control for the cruise control system. See general schematic shown below. If your brake switch bracket has two spaces for two switches, you can retain your current lock up switch configuration, otherwise you will also have to use the contact output for the lock up as well as the cruise control terminal "G".
The general location of the brake and clutch switches (manual transmission only). This is for the F and Y body LS1 and there may be slight differences from year to year.
Brake/Cruise Switch (Automatic and Manual Transmissions).
This is not what is shown for the factory set up in the component location drawing shown above, but this what you would use if you are doing a LS1 retrofit into a classic car. The bottom most connector has three wires and are hooked up as follows:
Orange: This is the 12V "Hot" feed for the brake lamps from the sop/hazard fuse.
White: Feed to the stop lamps
Blue: This is the feed for the cruise control module, terminal "G". This will have to be run through a relay which opens the contact when the relay is energized through the stop lamp being activated. If you are using a 4L60E, this blue wire would also be used to signal the pcm to disengaged the torque converter lock up.
The connector to the right has two wires, and this is a gray and brown/white. The gray wire would go to the cruise control select switch which also goes to the ignition cruise switch. The schematic above shows different color wire and yours may be different but the hook up is still the same. The brown/white wire goes to the cruise control module terminal "D".
Clutch Cruise Release Switch (Manual Transmissions)
Some of the manual transmission cruise control switches will have a clutch anticipate circuit (CPP) and cruise control circuit (4 wire connector) or just a clutch anticipate only (2 wire). The clutch anticipate circuit is a grounded contact (see schematic), and is located on terminals 'C" and "D'.
Clutch Anticipate only, shown above. The next picture not only shows the CPP circuit, but also has terminals "A" and "B" which will be in series with the brake switch connection shown in the schematic "B". This must be wired in correctly for use with the manual transmission set up.
When you have gotten everything mounted, installed and verified on the schematics that the switches and contacts are wired in properly, you need to take it out on a open road (highway) and test the cruise control to insure it is operating properly. If there are any problems such as surging and/or hesitations, do not operate it until you have troubleshot and corrected the problem. Remember there are various components besides the cruise control system that can affect it operation. If there is any questions on this, take it to a professional mechanic for assistance.
Modifying the Cruise Control Stalk
General information for building/modifying the cruise stalk can be found here.